Tailoring Weekend in Milan
With Massimo Pasinato
Last weekend, I spent my time in Milan, the capital of Italian design. The city has long been one of my favorites, and thanks to my work, I have regularly visited it in the years before the pandemic. So, when my business partner, Massimo Pasinato, the founder and owner of Sartoria Pasinato in Vicenza, invited me to his trunk show at the Fortela store, I didn’t hesitate to accept.
(Trunk show: A collaboration between retailers and tailors/craftsmen to showcase the latter's products to the retailer’s clientele.)
Why do I love Milan so much…
The attention to detail and the sense of purpose that permeates the buildings, interiors, and hospitality always inspire me.
And let’s not forget about the clothing culture.
A local once described Milan as the most European of Italian cities. That’s probably true. The influence of globalization is apparent, with its modern business district and a wide representation of international cuisine at all levels. Yet, I believe the city and its inhabitants have a unique identity worth observing and learning from.
Upon arriving in Milan, I headed straight to the Fortela store after settling into my accommodation. Some of you may already be familiar with the owner of this relatively young Italian brand, Alessandro Squarzi, from Instagram. With his distinctive style and great taste, he’s a favorite among street-style photographers and a respected figure in the menswear industry. His brand, Fortela, blends 1950s American style, Western culture, and classic Italian taste, and reinterprets iconic historical military garments. Squarzi is a passionate collector of vintage items, including cars, watches, and clothing. This philosophy is reflected in the store's interior design, atmosphere, and product selection. The overall effect is cohesive and well thought out.
Alessandro Squarzi and Massimo Pasinato met at the Trofeo Arbiter tailoring competition organized by Arbiter Magazine. As a result of this connection, the trunk show was arranged. Fortela primarily offers ready-to-wear clothing, but since their customers are also interested in bespoke tailoring, Squarzi was looking for a partner to meet this demand. Among the contestants at the Arbiter competition, where Massimo Pasinato won a silver medal, Sartoria Pasinato was deemed the best fit for the collaboration.
I was the first to begin the fittings, where we finalized the pattern for the master tailor's classic Ulster coat. This coat is part of the collection available under the MAX for Milan Keleceni label, which I also recommend. I chose the fabric from Drago's new Skyfall coat fabric collection. With a double-layered 600g/m2 fabric, it’s a coat that will certainly serve me for the rest of my life.
While waiting for clients to arrive, I examined Massimo's vintage fabric collection, which he had amassed over his 30-year career. These fabrics were specifically included at Squarzi's request. What makes them interesting is that they are denser, heavier, and rougher than most of the fabrics available today. They undoubtedly hold their shape well, allowing for sharp silhouettes. Wearing them, however, is a matter of both taste and practicality.
Gradually, the gentlemen began to arrive, dressed in a casually elegant manner, which is typical Italian, in the best possible way. It was fascinating to listen to the process of fabric selection, measurements, and garment planning. Both Massimo and Alessandro provided helpful advice to the clients, whether it was about button choices or jacket lengths. For me, besides the delivery of the finished garments, these moments are the most exciting in my profession, so I was thrilled to observe the events.
After the Event…
I stayed in the city for another two days. Besides visiting my favourite squares, cafés, and restaurants, I also explored the magnificent Villa Necchi Campiglio, a villa museum. This former private residence belonged to a wealthy Milanese family and was designed by Piero Portaluppi in the 1930s. In addition to the impressive private art collection, I was particularly captivated by the modern architectural solutions, especially the winter garden. I highly recommend a visit to anyone planning a trip to Milan in the future.
My Personal Favorites…
